How to Sew the Pietra Pants and Shorts Pockets

How to Sew the Pietra Pants and Shorts Pockets // Closet Core Patterns

Hi y’all, Amy here. When we put together the Rome Collection we also created the Learn to Sew workshop for beginners to tackle the three patterns included. The Pietra Pants and Shorts pattern has a fun little bit of pocket construction and since releasing it we have had a few confused sewists email us for help. Since not everyone needs the full course to get started sewing, we thought we would put together a mini tutorial just for the pockets so we can make sure these are really the quick sew we intended them to be! I’ll pick up from the part of the instructions where you’ve cut everything and interfaced the appropriate pieces and then I’ll leave you with two basted pockets, ready to assemble the legs. Ok, on your mark, get set…

In the following example I’m making a pair of shorts, although it’s the same process for the pants as well.  Below are the pocket pieces (which are labeled B, F or J depending on the view you are making). To start assembling the pockets, make sure you’ve interfaced the wrong side of the more angled edge using piece P.
How to Sew the Pietra Pants and Shorts Pockets // Closet Core Patterns
Next up, we need to join the pocket to the side front (pieces A, E or I). Below you can see my two side fronts for the shorts.
How to Sew the Pietra Pants and Shorts Pockets // Closet Core Patterns
Right sides together, match up the angled seams of side front and pocket and pin in place (make sure you match the notches – we made sure to offset notches on this seam so it was clear what side does where). Sew at 5/8″ and backstitch.
How to Sew the Pietra Pants and Shorts Pockets // Closet Core Patterns
How to Sew the Pietra Pants and Shorts Pockets // Closet Core Patterns
Press the seam allowance towards the pocket and understitch the seam to the pocket.
How to Sew the Pietra Pants and Shorts Pockets // Closet Core Patterns
Grade those seams to reduce bulk. Repeat for both legs
How to Sew the Pietra Pants and Shorts Pockets // Closet Core Patterns
Press the seam flat. Below, the left pocket (as you are wearing it) is on the left side of the image. The right pocket is on the right side (turned over so you can see the understitching).
Now flip the pocket piece up and fold it on itself using the fold notches as a guide. The notches are really crucial here so if you missed them, it’s not too late to go back and make sure you’ve marked them clearly.
How to Sew the Pietra Pants and Shorts Pockets // Closet Core Patterns
Below I’m pointing with pins at the areas where you need to align your notches so everything matches up.
How to Sew the Pietra Pants and Shorts Pockets // Closet Core Patterns
Pin both sides of the pocket in place and baste within the seam allowance (1/2″) on both sides.
How to Sew the Pietra Pants and Shorts Pockets // Closet Core Patterns
How to Sew the Pietra Pants and Shorts Pockets // Closet Core Patterns
Here is what your pockets should look like when fully assembled:

You should now be ready to assemble the legs or shorts by treating this section as one piece. I hope you find your next pair of Pietras a breeze!

Ok, off to hem these now!

Learn How to Sew Clothes with our online sewing class! // Closet Core Patterns

 

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Hi! I'm Heather Lou, a pattern designer and sewing educator for the modern maker. At Closet Core Patterns, we transform your imagination into step-by-step implementation that helps you create a wardrobe you love - not one you're limited to buying off the rack.

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